Lara Stone
Photo: Steven Meisel for Louis Vuitton S/S 10
IMG
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (13)
Top Icons (7)
Money Girls (11)
Top Sexiest (6)
PRO: It remains uncontested that IMG looms over the competition as the defining model management company in the industry. Ford might have godmothered the industry and Elite may have forged the supermodel but it is IMG that stands to make a grown up business of the modeling trade. On every platform imaginable, IMG dominates the spectrum of the NY modeling industry. From editorial visibility in the slickest magazines to the bi-annual fashion and cosmetic campaigns to lucrative catalogues, IMG's ambition towards monopoly is manifest. They have the most stars, both editorial and mass market, as well as the New Faces division that has recently posited the best performances via sensations like Daria and Gemma Ward. IMG is a consistent, professional and aggressive operation that works tirelessly for both model and client but most significantly has brought an impeccable brand of corporate discipline to an often-times undisciplined business.
CON: It's expansion time for the mega-brand which is IMG, as it adds the blue chip reps Art +Commerce to match the 7th on Sixth operation that oversees NY, LA and Miami Fashion Weeks, to its fashion wing. Detractors say this is a terrible thing for the business, edging things towards that dreaded monopoly. Detractors whisper that it's not possible to keep the unruly and sensitive denizens of fashion in the columns with all this corporate structure. But all that nay-saying has not cost IMG a single significant model in the last year which is to say they clearly continue to keep their top talent very happy (code for very rich). And that's all an amazing new girl looking to make a choice of NY agencies needs to now. IMG remains the No.1 model management company, by an even wider margin than ever before for every kind of model looking for representation.
SCOUTING CALL: When you sign with IMG what you get is a total career assessment. Goals are set and a cohesive plan is put in place to get you to the top of the modeling business, and more importantly, to keep you there. More than at any other agency, "management" in all its implications is engaged to its fullest potential. That makes it the No 1 choice for any aspiring model.
Natasha Poly
Photo: Inez and Vinoodh for V Magazine September 2008
Women Model Management
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (12)
Top Icons (4)
Money Girls (5)
Top Sexiest (2)
PRO: The turbulence experienced by Women Model Management earlier in 2008 created for some the impression that the very foundations of that company was about to come apart. But then something quite intriguing happened. The bookings of models both rising (see Toni Garrn) and established (Natasha Poly) actually super-sized, testifying to the value of the shrewd experience and the deep network of connections current Director Louie Chaban has brought to the company.All the stars are still here and the aggressive scouting network in play makes it clear that mother agencies are giving this operation first choice on many of their best prospects. As a result Women has gone to the head of the class in the breaking faces sweepstakes at the same time it has been scooping up a pack of MVPs from vulnerable agencies thus boosti9ng Women's numbers on MDC's Top 50 to an all time high. Frankly New York is now a city defined by the IMG and the Women/Supreme balance of power. That leverage is a massive asset for a mother agency looking to position a girl authoritatively on the New York market. The presence of that critical mass of bold face names means the Women bookers wielding the phone on the behalf of that fledgling star has a lot of muscle on their behalf. As for the ability of this agency to market a new star...the evidence is inarguable.
CON: The industry has now clearly processed the identity of Women Management in terms of that unique axis with Supreme Management . Now comes Women Direct as a new proposition challenging clients to internalize the ramifications of a company with a third wing. Of course when that third wing rockets out of the box via the smash performance of girls like Alla and Dorothea, the aura of success created shuts up any criticism. But this was always the thing about Women. It was never a fearful company and the willingness to do things differently is part of the company's legacy. It will be very fascinating watching how the three boards spin relative to each other. Should they sync in total that will create a truly mighty machine that fosters little competition.
SCOUTING CALL: The fact is now established that a mother agency looking to give their girl the spin of ultimate cool in NY is going to get major dividends at Supreme/ Women. Before those dividends were slanted in a haute editorial direction. Now that super-cool girl finds herself nestling in big money contract offers and lucrative bookings at the best rates. It's a brave new business model, no? The power-fusion at Women is a bold new experiment, and if the walls hold, signals that the future is indeed Women/Supreme.
Anja Rubik
Photo: Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin for Vogue Paris June 2009
Next Models NY
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (11)
Top Icons (1)
Money Girls (3)
PRO: Next remains without question, one of the wealthiest and best managed management companies in the business and in many ways the best current performer amongst the big brand agencies outside of IMG. With a very concise and focused scouting network that scans through Brazil, Australia and Poland, the past year has seen major dividends pay off for MDC Top 10 Faces, Malgosia, Anja and the sensational newcomer Catherine. Add to that the hard earned stability of Next's big money bookings and what you have here is an agency that can guarantee you your checks without slipping into the mediocrity all catalogue bookings, all the time. When it comes to client relationships and alliances, Next Management is very discreet about its leverage but all the more powerful because of it. Faith Kates is one of the toughest negotiators around and with her on your side, you will work and at an impressive day rate.
CON: It doesn't really faze the bottom line of the operation which is swimming in lucrative catalogue capital that it doesn't focus on image bookings. But there's been a constant struggle with those "high image" bookings to counterbalance the big money commercial bookings that keeps Next rolling in cash. Thankfully the consistency of the scouting net that produces at least one editorial star a year, addresses that challenge nicely amplifying that Next is indeed that ideal of a full service destination.
SCOUTING CALL: Any new model scouted by this company should grab the offer. The one-two punch delivered by the Wilkenfeld/Kates team is unmatched in the business. Next stands distinctly not as a vanity production like so many other agencies, but a business with a capital B. With an amazing scouting to management ratio there is no doubt that Next knows how to break a new face on the market.
Mariacarla Boscono
Photo: Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin for Givenchy S/S 09
Supreme Management
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (8)
Top Sexiest (1)
PRO: As the modeling industry shifts into becoming something a little bit less creative and a lot more corporate, the stunning success of Paul Rowland's Supreme is a testament to the power of his vision. Importantly, that success is not only aesthetic, it is also financial and that proves there is still a vast market for difference in fashion. Rowland's imaging might sometimes be peculiar. It may not be so necessarily classic and it is not comfortably bourgeois, but for fashion to be interesting, then it needs a vision that is instinctive to the cultural moment at hand. The feeling of NY in the the Zeros is encapsulated here at Supreme and that is a vital achievement. There are clients like Marc Jacobs or Prada or Balenciaga that essentially define the model look for their respective market and that is to be expected, but it is Supreme alone among all the NY agencies that has a branded look and taste-point for all its models. From graphic design, to office decor, to staffing, to show packaging, Supreme stands for something: something cool, something directional, something personal and something that is about an emotional response to the idea of beauty which ultimately is what fashion should be about. Otherwise we would all be living in a catalogue universe. The girl that gets handpicked for Supreme should consider herself rare, unusual and very very privileged.
CON: It's that old canard..."not commercial" that surfaces around the idea of Supreme, but this agency never alleged it was for everybody. If you want to be that glossy pretty catalogue queen, this might not be your best destination. But Supreme has its client pool and that client pool includes some very lucrative bookings. That means if you want to walk that demanding Marc-Calvin-Prada-Jil Sander-Balenciaga-Vuitton line then an alliance with Supreme will have you in front and center with those clients. In addition, for a certain kind of Supreme girl there is also the bonus option of access to the Women power board. It's a dream deal, maximum cool at Supreme with a built in Tunnel to wider market at Women. If this killer strategy is maintained, the future is Women/Supreme.
SCOUTING CALL: The fact is now established that a mother agency looking to give their girl the spin of ultimate cool in NY is going to get major dividends at Supreme/ Women. Before those dividends were slanted in a haute editorial direction. Now that super-cool girl finds herself nestling in big money contract offers and lucrative bookings at the best rates. It's a brave new business model, no? The power-fusion at Women is a bold new experiment, and if the walls hold, signals that the future is indeed Women/Supreme.
Eniko Mihalik
PH: Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin for i-D magazine January 2009
Marilyn Model Mgmt
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (6)
Money Girls (1)
Top Sexiest (3)
PRO: What a magnificent performance Marilyn NY has executed in the last 18 months. From loyal fixtures like Caroline Trentini to the modish sensation that is Irina Lazareanu through to coveted newcomers like Iekeliene, Patricia and Georgia Frost, this agency has out gunned and outflanked much of its big name competition in the new faces stakes. The consistency of that performance alone puts them breath for breath with most of the market leaders in terms of the scouting aspect alone. What this proves is that the scouting and management team at Marilyn is as adept at building high impact editorial models as any other in NY. They know the ground rules, elegantly maintain their relationships and conduct business with an integrity which is very welcome. Clients, when casting, have come to trust that the scouts here will supply them with a constant flow of compelling new girls and should you be among them, expect to rise to the heights of the best booking possibilities in the business.
CON: Most agencies in NY use the presence of a charismatic agent to anchor the aesthetic of the agency. Marilyn, though it is flagshipped by the legendary Marilyn Gauthier from which the agency derives its name has dispersed its visibility across a team of bookers. It's an intelligent and decent strategy but it makes the aura of the agency a little dimmer than most of the super-star shops it competes with. That said, the Paris office remains powerful and lucrative. If Marilyn NY stays the current course and attract two or three major names then this could represent a major shift in the NY power agency alignment making them the newest market leader in the trade.
SCOUTING CALL: They're honest, loyal and squeaky clean at Marilyn. A mother with a very beautiful daughter would want to sign here and feel secure that her child is being properly looked after in all regards.
Edita Vilkeviciute
Photo: Camilla Akrans for Numero September 2008
DNA Models
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (5)
Top Icons (5)
Money Girls (3)
Top Sexiest (2)
PRO: In the grand old days of the modeling industry, legendary model-masters used to elegantly but unabashedly set the booking terms to the clients as to the market value of their models. The tradition lives on at DNA, the single most consistent and selective NY boutique operation of the last five years. By obsessively nursing their high-end relationships with Conde Nast and a small circle of the industry's most powerful photographers, DNA is every inch as elite and successful as they want to be. This is great news for those lucky new models like Ali Michael that they take on. A new model scouted by DNA might want to feel privileged at being selected because the track records of Natalia Vodianova, Doutzen Krous and Karolina Kurkova are inspirational indicators of where excellent management can take a girl. The lifetime dream of the Bonnouvriers to host the chicest agency in NY has indeed come true in all its manifestations. Legendary supermodels + impeccable management of established girls + a steady upflow of blue chip new faces = stability and security, which is a coveted thing for a boutique to gain.
CON: Thinking multi-media, movies, music? DNA is probably not the best place to pursue that agenda. DNA is a high fashion ship and sails defiantly in that one direction, whatever the industry trends to the contrary. High fashion isn't what it used to be (maybe that's why it's high fashion) and the massive incursion of celebrities onto the fragrance and cosmetic contract market means it's the Karolina's, Natalia's and Doutzen's that are DNA's bread and butter revenue babes.
SCOUTING CALL: The red hot results speak for themselves. DNA can clearly market a new model to the best of the best. If you see yourself as being an ultra exclusive Vogue girl, a Calvin Klein face or a couture catwalker then this is the NY destination for you.
Coco Rocha
Photo: Craig McDean for Dior
Elite New York
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (4)
Money Girls (2)
Top Sexiest (2)
PRO: Elite is an agency that in its 30 years of existence has processed over 5 million bookings. Obviously a massive array of clients call Elite everyday looking for a wide range of models . As such, the prospect of this agency going broke because it is not in the editorial in-club at the current moment, is an unlikely proposition. Elite also boasts one of the single most powerful scouting network on the planet and will not have a problem finding outstanding new faces, a fact verified by the development of girls like Chiara and Michaela. As one of the two most recognizable brand names in the business Elite has the experience, connections and know how to make you any kind of star you wish to be, editorial or commercial. A major bonus for Elite's future is the audacious ascension of Neal Hamil , an agency powerhouse with the kind of vision that has served the likes of Veronica Webb and Stephanie Seymour very well. Hamil's killer network of industry contacts and his personal charm is set to be quite an asset when the Elite North America brand starts to engage smaller agencies across North America in order to recharge its engines. That will be very exciting to watch..
CON: There is more than enough commercial bookings on tap to keep the reservoir at an optimum financial level. Security is invaluable, but the question of taking Elite to its maximum brand potential is an inevitable one that still dogs this iconic agency. Somehow it would be so elegant for the agency that pretty much authored the ideal of the supermodel to re-integrate that concept back into their booking spectrum.
SCOUTING CALL: With a network like that and a staff of experienced and competent agents who know how to work the "editorial grid" signing with Elite is a no-brainer. And since nature abhors a void, perhaps you are that next superstar ready to set things right. One never discounts a grand master.
Chanel Iman
Photo: for Ralph Lauren
Ford Models
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (3)
PRO: There are perhaps only two universal brand names in the agency business and Ford is one of them (Elite being the other). What makes Ford such a powerhouse is a relentless scouting network that allows it to stream coveted new faces to feed the insatiable appetite that characterizes the modeling industry, without straining its cash flow. This is an agency that is not dependent on any one single scouting outlet or relationship for its survival. Greatly to Ford's credit is a new thrust to service all its client with complete corporate discipline, an ambition that is indeed making clients very happy and making Ford more and more of a one-stop shopping destination for models across the spectrum of the market. A girl looking to join Ford should feel secure that they hold one of the best reputations for keep their body of models working at full tilt. They are effortlessly one of the best places to generate a massive income for that ambitious newcomer.
CON: It keeps happening at this shop, where its freshly minted editorial faces bolt before they even have chance to be branded properly as Ford models. But that is probably an inevitable upflow where girls want to join in on the coveted glow that the market leaders seem to emit. At the end of the day it doesn't faze Ford which has such deep scouting roots, it can locate another batch with which to replace their losses. The future challenge is to secure tighter manager to model relationships to stem those losses. They have the money, the wisdom and the power to achieve exactly that.
SCOUTING CALL: It is Ford, one of the legends in the trade. Whatever the fluctuations and changes, exits and entrances, this is one management company that you can safely bank on to remain a pillar of stability in a very unstable business.
Sigrid Agren
Ph: Alasdair McLellan for i-D Magazine June 09
New York Model Management
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (2)
PRO: Traditionally, New York Models has an audacious track record as a venue for some of the most dynamic new faces on the market. Its scouting tradition effortlessly ranks with those of the more directional agencies in the trade. In addition the managers on its booking board bring together an ideal balance of experience and passion driven innovation. The dedication with which this agency seeks to constantly present its models to the best clients proves that there is no shortage of ambition (or contacts) here. Owner Heinz Holba's ambition is a lot more aggressive than most might have presumed as he already has one of the most active new US model searches in motion, as well as big plans for the future of this high-editorial shop.
CON: It's a question of identity. In the same way some clients sell to the consumer because of an identity based around the idea of "directional", NY Models is an agency well poised to sell to the market if it were to fine-tune its identity. What is the New York Models look? What is the signature New York Models aesthetic? The answer to this is as simple as a striking show package or promo package. The scouting eye is there and consequently the cool girls are there, now it's just a matter of defined packaging and New York Models effortlessly falls into the directional camp.
SCOUTING CALL: If "unique" is your calling card, then a passionate and hardworking body of agents are on standby to push and promote you with every erg of their energy.
Charlotte Di Calypso
Photo courtesy of 1 Model Management
1 Model Management
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (1)
Top Icons (2)
Top Sexiest (1)
PRO: Scott Lipps' energy level is for most of his competition, astonishing to watch and for that he gets the prize for relentlessness. Almost overnight, 1 Management has developed a glamour quotient that many veterans would kill for with a board that ranges from a legend like Eva Herzigova to the hot sensation, Ymre Stiekema. Mr Lipps also executed quite the power move in securing a vital relationship with Elite Paris as well as Nathalie Paris resulting in a massive leap for him in the quality of his new faces. Yet once more 1 has become booking central with an office crackling with energy and activity. If you are scouted by 1, be aware that this is the place to discuss your film and television dreams, or for that matter your plan to cross over into music. That is a very shrewd move, giving 1 Management room for significant business expansion into the full service game as it matures into being a fixture. There is a focus and drive here that indicates that this company will be a major force to be reckoned with in the next two years.
CON: The superstar divas and established faces who have flocked to the agency require full time attention (as well they should, given the scale of the checks they bring in). Now that Mr Lipps has tripled his challenge by launching 1LA a film and television talent management enterprise as well as 1M, a music division, it's going to be interesting to see if his audacious energy can be sustained across all these enterprises. In addition to that, he has to accommodate the needs of a Eva, Claudia, Rie, Angela, and Lydia Hearst as well as Helena and Fernanda, the two most recent additions. How does he do it in one 24 hr span? We don't know but we certainly respect the purity of such ambition. That said, 1 realizes that in today's market, it's the hot new face that is going to keep an agency's aura of "now-ness" going and as long as the edges stay crisp, the money makers will keep this shop in very lucrative business.
SCOUTING CALL: President Scott Lipps is the single hungriest and most ambitious agent in NY right this second. Since 1 is a young boutique, the girl best suited to sign here is a model with a game plan for major level stardom. If you have that fire, then you will have an agency willing to match you step for step in your quest for world domination.
Sessilee Lopez
Ph: Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia July 08
Major Model Management
Models in top rankings:
Top 50 (1)
PRO: In their own quiet and unobtrusive way, Major has secured its place in the midst of the ruthless and predatory NY modeling scene. Their key editorial girl, Tiiu, stayed put and has been well rewarded for that loyalty by landing a lucrative Cover Girl contract. At the same time, Major also managed to diversify their board with very promising new faces such as Egle even as they opening a quickly successful new shop in Paris, thus opening their scouting possibilities. In a tumultuous year that saw many a shift in the NY agency business, Major stayed constant probably due to the very considered and respectful manner in which Katia Sherman maintains the integrity of her board. This is one agency head who will go that extra mile, emotionally and financially for a model she truly believes in. This is rare and all the more precious in this business and all the more compelling a reason for a new girl to align herself with Major. Again it just goes to prove that the predictable editorial management "grid" exemplified by booking a girl with (Steven/Mario/Mert-n-Marcus) for (Vogue/Pop/Numero/V/W) in order to get (Gucci/Prada/Calvin/Fendi) campaigns is not a proposition exclusive to the IMG's and DNA's. Clients look everywhere for the Next Big Thing. And that's very good news for you, the aspiring model.
CON: Ironically what makes for an excellent virtue in a human being can sometimes be a setback in the unkind modeling industry. Major is an honorable and quiet agency, not given to poaching girls from other agencies or demanding package bookings on their models. President Katia Sherman and her team are not cold-blooded or mercenary in the least so don't fear the "booked today-dropped tomorrow" syndrome with them. That said, if you're looking for a shop to practice your super-star diva plans for fashion world domination at the cost of everyone around you, this might not be your kind of party.
SCOUTING CALL: Keep an eye on the agents and scouts from this agency because very quietly they've done something right. If you are a girl of the quality of a Tiiu, the correct decisions can clearly be made for your career.
Photo courtesy of Trump Management
Trump Management
Models in top rankings:
PRO: It's a testament to the power of a dedicated scouting eye and dedicated, disciplined management to watch how Trump has positioned itself as a stable and valid company. The longevity of Lisa Cant speaks of this, as does the impeccable booking stretch of Hye Park as well as the rise during the FW 07 bookings of newcomer Ekat. Most importantly is the loyalty that the managers at this agency has inspired and that is very important for a girl looking for representation to consider. It's very clear that Trump is completely dedicated to carving the best career possible for the girls they sign. If what you're looking for is that totally focused and devoted manager, at an agency that will give you maximum attention as well as space to grow, then Trump will be a top choice for you.
CON: It's getting mighty crowded in the NY field and the turnover on new girls in the editorial market is reaching a cruel crescendo. The challenge then is to steady Trump's recently flush hand and keep the Lisa's and Hye's running at full momentum a year from now. Luckily via The Apprentice TV show, the uber-branding of the Donald Trump empire should mean all those Baby Ambers' in the Mid-West will now know what Trump means. And this is an agency it would not be advised to bet against.
SCOUTING CALL: Signing here gives you the advantage of boutique management, mixed with a savvy that will surprise you coming from an agency this new. The Trump crew has worked hard to make their mark and they are hungry for the inspiring new talent that could provide that firework. Besides, you might get to meet the legendary Donald.
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